By Tony Margiotta
Amarone della Valpolicella has always been a wine with a big personality—bold, rich, and full-bodied. But for years, it was also known for something else: a “raisiny” sweetness and an overpowering oakiness that made it a love-it-or-leave-it choice for many wine drinkers. That all began to change thanks to one visionary winemaker: Ugolini. Through his innovative approach, Ugolini has redefined Amarone, taking it from a heavy, raisiny wine to one of elegance, balance, and pure expression of terroir.
The Traditional Amarone: Bold, Sweet, and Oaky
Let’s start with a look at what Amarone traditionally was. Amarone is made using a unique process called "appassimento," where grapes are partially dried before fermentation. This concentrates the sugars and flavors, creating a wine that’s rich and powerful. However, the downside? Many Amarone ended up tasting almost syrupy, with strong raisin-like flavors. And because they were often aged in new, heavily toasted oak barrels, the wines also carried a strong oakiness that sometimes masked the natural fruit and terroir.
For some, this style of Amarone was the epitome of luxury—big, bold, and unapologetically intense. But for others, it was simply too much. The sweetness, the heavy oak, the overpowering nature of the wine—it all added up to a style that didn’t appeal to everyone.
Ugolini’s Vision: A New Kind of Amarone
Enter Ugolini, a winemaker with deep roots in the Valpolicella region and a vision for what Amarone could be. Ugolini believed that Amarone didn’t have to be a heavy, raisiny, oaky wine to be great. In fact, he saw the potential for Amarone to be something more—something elegant, balanced, and a true reflection of its terroir.
Redefining the Appassimento Process
Ugolini’s first step in transforming Amarone was to rethink the appassimento process. Instead of allowing the grapes to dry until they were almost like raisins, Ugolini shortened the drying period. This kept more of the natural acidity and freshness in the grapes, resulting in a wine that was still rich but far less sweet. The result? Amarone with bright, vibrant fruit flavors—think fresh cherries and plums—without the overwhelming sweetness that had been the hallmark of traditional Amarone.
This was possible because Ugolini makes an Amarone single vineyard cru from the Valle Alta vineyard. Only the finest grapes from one of the most coveted vineyard sites in the Valpolicella which are hand-harvested and hand-selected at the perfect moment.
This change allowed the natural characteristics of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Oseleta grapes to shine through, creating a wine that was more complex, layered, and true to its origins.
A Subtle Touch with Oak Aging
Another major shift in Ugolini’s approach was his use of oak. Recognizing that the heavy oak influence in traditional Amarone often overpowered the wine’s natural flavors, Ugolini chose a more subtle approach. He began aging his wines in small custom made French barrique medium toasted, and also large custom made French oak casks. These were hand-selected and tested by Giambattista Ugolini himself. These larger casks imparted far less oak flavor, allowing the fruit to be the star of the show.
Moreover, Ugolini extended the aging process, giving the wine time to naturally integrate the oak without it becoming the dominant flavor. The Amarone then was aged for a period of 7-10 years in glass to further develop the fruit, perfumes, and terroir before releasing it to the public. This produced Amarone that were smooth, well-balanced, and free from the overpowering oakiness that had previously defined the style.
The New Amarone: Elegant, Balanced, and Terroir-Driven
Thanks to Ugolini’s innovative techniques, Amarone della Valpolicella has undergone a transformation. His wines are now celebrated for their elegance, balance, and purity of expression. Gone are the days of overly sweet, raisiny, and oaky Amarone. Instead, Ugolini’s Amarone offer a harmonious blend of fresh fruit, gentle spice, and a touch of minerality, with a structure that is firm yet refined.
These new-style Amarone are wines that can be enjoyed by a broader audience, including those who may have previously found traditional Amarone too intense. They pair beautifully with food—from rich pasta dishes and roasted meats to aged cheeses—without overwhelming the palate. Ugolini has opened the door to a more nuanced and sophisticated interpretation of Amarone, one that honors its roots while embracing a modern sensibility.
The Ugolini Effect: Shaping the Future of Amarone
Ugolini’s influence goes beyond his own wines. His approach has inspired other winemakers in the Valpolicella region to reconsider their methods, leading to a broader movement toward more balanced, terroir-driven Amarone. The result is a new generation of Amarone that is less about sheer power and more about finesse and complexity.
Wine critics and consumers alike have taken notice. Ugolini’s Amarone have received widespread acclaim, earning high scores and praise for their quality and distinctiveness. They are now seen as a benchmark for what modern Amarone can be—wines that are not just powerful, but also elegant and expressive.
Conclusion: Why You Should Rediscover Amarone
Thanks to Ugolini, Amarone is no longer the heavy, raisiny, and oaky wine it once was. By focusing on balance, freshness, and the true expression of the grape and terroir, Ugolini has moved Amarone into a new era of elegance and refinement. For wine lovers who may have been put off by the old-style Amarone, now is the perfect time to give it another chance.
So, the next time you’re browsing for a wine that’s rich in history but modern in style, reach for a bottle of Ugolini Valle Alta Amarone single vineyard cru. Experience for yourself how one winemaker’s vision has transformed this iconic wine into something truly extraordinary.
Add to your cellar of Ugolini Valle Alta Amarone. Italian Wine Store carries several vintages which add dimension to your wine collection.